A coat for Elizabeth

 

The brief for 'Bridging the Gap' exhibition with E.A.S.T. was to explore women who despite their gender and circumstances made an impact in their own time and whose influence can still be felt today.

I chose as my subject Early Women Herbalists.

For centuries people have gathered plants to use to treat medical consitions. Many of these were women who carried th nurturing role for their families and communities. Most early women herbalists are almost entirely unknown. In fact they kept their work secret for fear of being accused of withcraft.

The Witchcraft Act of 1563 criminalized witchcraft leding to the persecution of herbalists, healers and midwives.

Women were not allowed to study medicine until 1874.

My research did find some named women herbalists who kept written records and whose work was recognised.

The best known is Elizabeth Blackwell 1707 - 1758 who wrote the bestselling book "A Curious Herbal" in 1737.

The book contains 500 botanical drawings along with a description of 'the practise of Physick'

The skills required by the herbalists are considerable. Each plant needs to be recognised and then prepared in the correct way. Roots, leaves and flowers all used in different ways. Incorrect use could be harmful, even fatal.

The common names for plants often give a clue. Plants with 'witch' or 'devil' in their names are likely to be poisonous.

'A Coat for Elizabeth' is in recogntion of Elizabeth Blackwell and her book which contributed to the development of medicine.

I have imagined the wearer foraging for medicinal plants in the forest. The useful plants hidden in nature, discovered by the herbalist, who hides her knowledge in turn.

I have used several techniques to build up the surface design on the black fabric. Discharging and bleaching, markal oil sticks, applique with sheers, metallic silk, paper lame and paper lamination. 

This is the first coat I have made so my dressmaking skills were challenged! But I am pleased with the result. It does fit me, I could wear it.

'A Coat for Elizabeth' will be exhibited as part of the EAST exhibition 'Bridging the Gap' at The Minories Gallery in Colchester from 24th April until 4th May 2025. Thursday to Sunday 10am - 4pm.

I will be stewarding the exhibition on Sat 26th and Sun 27th April