A coat for Elizabeth

 

The brief for 'Bridging the Gap' exhibition with E.A.S.T. was to explore women who despite their gender and circumstances made an impact in their own time and whose influence can still be felt today.

I chose as my subject Early Women Herbalists.

For centuries people have gathered plants to use to treat medical consitions. Many of these were women who carried th nurturing role for their families and communities. Most early women herbalists are almost entirely unknown. In fact they kept their work secret for fear of being accused of withcraft.

The Witchcraft Act of 1563 criminalized witchcraft leding to the persecution of herbalists, healers and midwives.

Women were not allowed to study medicine until 1874.

My research did find some named women herbalists who kept written records and whose work was recognised.

The best known is Elizabeth Blackwell 1707 - 1758 who wrote the bestselling book "A Curious Herbal" in 1737.

The book contains 500 botanical drawings along with a description of 'the practise of Physick'

The skills required by the herbalists are considerable. Each plant needs to be recognised and then prepared in the correct way. Roots, leaves and flowers all used in different ways. Incorrect use could be harmful, even fatal.

The common names for plants often give a clue. Plants with 'witch' or 'devil' in their names are likely to be poisonous.

'A Coat for Elizabeth' is in recogntion of Elizabeth Blackwell and her book which contributed to the development of medicine.

I have imagined the wearer foraging for medicinal plants in the forest. The useful plants hidden in nature, discovered by the herbalist, who hides her knowledge in turn.

I have used several techniques to build up the surface design on the black fabric. Discharging and bleaching, markal oil sticks, applique with sheers, metallic silk, paper lame and paper lamination. 

This is the first coat I have made so my dressmaking skills were challenged! But I am pleased with the result. It does fit me, I could wear it.

'A Coat for Elizabeth' will be exhibited as part of the EAST exhibition 'Bridging the Gap' at The Minories Gallery in Colchester from 24th April until 4th May 2025. Thursday to Sunday 10am - 4pm.

I will be stewarding the exhibition on Sat 26th and Sun 27th April

Casting a shoe

 

The phrase 'to cast a shoe' is more commonly used by horseriders and farriers but mine has quite a different meaning.

Reading about shoe superstitions I discovered  the practice of 'casting a shoe' as a sign of good luck - throwing a shoe after married couples, or those embarking on a journey.

The original saboteurs - those wooden shoe wearers in France who threw them into machinery as an industrial labour protest - also were casting their shoes.

But my casting is none of those......

I wanted to see if I could produce a plaster cast of one of my clogs. Lots of research needed.

But before committing these precious objects to the process I tested out the method using a contemporary size 5 childrens shoe - Clarks of course!  

This belonged to my grandson Rory and the other one had disappeared - perhaps someone will find it in a future century?

Using an alginate moulding liquid first to make a rubbery mould. Allowing this to dry fully. Then mixing plaster of paris to make the cast.

It worked pretty well on Rory's shoe giving good detail of the fabric and even the Clarks branding

However, the larger leather clog was more of a challenge. I needed something to prevent the alginate liquid going inside the shoe - the first thing tried was some playdough (thanks again to Rory)

The mould support needed to be large enough to hold the shoe, watertight so the alginate liquid cannot escape, and something which can be removed. Duplo provided the perfect tool for the job

I removed the laces and gave the shoe a rub of vaseline so it would release from the mould

The alginate comes as a powder which is mixed with water to form a liquid. You only have 4 minutes to pour your mould before it sets

I was worried about the bubbles

Left to set overnight

When set I removed the duplo and cut the mould into two parts

Then mixed up the plaster of paris and poured into into the mould - disaster! The liquid plaster ran out of the cut in the mould, all over my kitchen, and all over me. 

So next time I taped the mould cut seam and rebuilt the duplo mould support around to catch any runaway plaster. 

I cannot recommend duplo enough - what a brand - it worked a treat

This time the paster cast was a success. I love that it picked up the stitching and the lace eyelets.

On the next cast I made a stupid mistake and put the rubber mould together heel to toe (not toe to toe) so had to use a hacksaw and cut through the plaster cast.

Polyfiller used to put back together again. But as the concealed shoes found in buidings were usually in very worn condition with evidence of repair I think this can add to my story.

So far I have made two moulds and three casts.

Not too bad for a first effort, never having tried anything like this before.

So what do I do with them now?

Enjoying this process of exploration for work to be exhibited with EAST in 2026

Embroidery Holiday to India - third stop - Patna

On day six we will leave Muzzaffarpur and drive for 2 hours to the city of Patna and a day of sightseeing.  Transport is on an air-conditioned coach with the services of our Indian guide at all times.

In Patna we will visit the Golghar.  This is a large cylindrical granary build to store the grain of Bihar state and alleviate poverty. 

It is regarded as the symbol of Patna

Also in Patna we will visit the Mahama Gandhi Sangrahalaya - a museum dedicated to the leader of the Indian Independence movement. 

The Champaran Satyagraha movement which worked to support the local indigo farmers against exploitation by British landlords started in Patna and was an important milestone towards independence. 

Along the Ganga river in Patna is Gandhi Ghat which is were his ashes were consigned to holy waters after his death in 1948.

The bridge across the Ganges river in Patna is called Mahatma Gandhi Setu

We will visit the Patna Museum which holds some of the oldest artefacts from India. This was established by the Raj and build in the grand style of Mughal and Rajput architecture

The museum is knowm as Jadu Ghar by the local people

All entries to museums , galleries and other places visited on the holiday are included in the cost

The final stop on our tour of Patna is the Buddhu Smitri Park. 

If you would like to know more about this exciting Embroidery Holiday to India, including the full itinerary, details of hotels, flights, etc then please contact www.aahilyaholidays.com

 

Shoe superstitions

 

My research continues into 'concealed shoes' and has introduced me to a new word APOTROPAIC

Defined as "supposedly having the power to avert evil influences or bad luck" OED

I was fortunate to spend some time in the Northampton Museum archive where I had access to their collection of materials relating to 'concealed shoes' including books, journals, newspaper articles and PHD papers.

Nobody is completely sure why shoes were left hidden in the walls and chimneys of houses but there are some very interesting theories

Concealed shoes in the Museum

This article written by June Swann, a former curator at the Northampton Museum and an expert in shoes makes fascinating reading and was my starting point

https://www.apotropaios.co.uk/concealed-shoes---an-article-by-june-swann.html

There are many superstitions about shoes.They take on the shape of the wearer so can represent the human form

Early shoes were 'straights' with no right or left and very narrow. Thought they might represent the horns of the Devil.

"Trapping the devil in a boot" is a phrase from ancient folk lore and a link to Christianity

The smell of leather was thought to repel the Devil - explored by Ralf Merrifield in his book "The Archeology of ritual and magic" Batsford 1987

Witches were also thought to be warded off with the placement of a shoe near an entrance to a building - doors, windows, chimneys

There have been finds of 'witches bottles' sometimes found alongside the hidden shoes. Or a 'hag stone' with a hole to catch the witch

But shoes can also be a symbol of good luck

From the 16th Century it was common practice to throw a shoe after someone for good luck. When setting off on a journey, or moving house, or getting married. This practice remains in the tying of old shoes to the back of wedding cars

It is thought that shoes might be taken to a new house and placed under the floor to bring good fortune

Shoes are associated with fertility. 

'Smickling' is a Lancashire custom of trying on the shoes of someone who has just given birth to 'catch' a child. 

Interestingly there is also a superstition about unmarried women trying on a bride's shoe in the hope it might help then find a husband.

Some shoes were found concealed below the floor in bedrooms - maybe under the bed to aid fertility?

The traditional nursery rhyme about the 'Old woman who lived in a shoe, who had so many children......' 

Half of the concealed shoes found were childrens shoes. There was an Ancient Carthainian practice of burying the bodies of babies and children in the foundations of buildings. Also used in Roman Britain. Were shoes used as a later substitution? In the hope that any future children in the house would have a longer life?

"One for the water, one for the fire" was a superstition about disposing of shoes to keep away bad luck. Many concealed shoes were found in chimneys - could this be the fire? 

It could also help explain why it is mosly single shoes which have been found.

Fascinating reading. How will any of this translate into a series of textile art? Not sure yet. Watch this space..........

Embroidery Holiday to India - second stop - Muzaffarpur

 

The second location on the fantastic Embroidery Holiday to India will be a flight to Patna and an onward journey to Mazaffarpur in the Bihar state

In Mazaffarar we will try out two different traditional Indian textile practices. The first of these is Madhubani Painting.

Mudhabani Painting is a traditional folk art form known for it's bright colours produced from local natural vegetable dyes, rice paste and charcoal

The Madhubani painting is used to decorate walls, floors and other surfaces in homes and temples. Plus on decorative items like furniture, pottery and of course, textiles.

On the second day in Mazaffarpur we will have a workshop on Suzani embroidery. Suzani is a very old stitch technique practised for centuries in Central Asia. 

Worked onto cotton or silk fabric with a variety of stitches, including chain stitch, satin stitch and buttonhole stitch. 

The Suzani designs are inspired by nature with flowers, trees and animals used to build up intricate designs.

Suzani embroidery is used to decorate household items, clothing and religious items.

A Suzani can take several months or even years to complete and so are precious items often handed down in families

For more information and to book for this incredible holiday of a lifetime please visit https://www.aahilyaholidays.com/tour/0716/an-indian-embroidery-holiday-with-artist-mary-mcintosh-2025

Embroidery Holiday to India 2nd - 16th October 2025

 

First stop on the fabulous Embroidery Holiday to India will be Delhi and a visit to the Craft Museum on 3rd October

The museum houses crafts from all over India with examples of textiles and fabrics to the fore

We will also see sculpture, wood carvings, metalwork and much more

I have been forewarned that the first day in Delhi is a senses overload with a riot of colour, noise, smells and visual delights everywhere. We will have a chance to tour the twin cities of Old and New Delhi - a real mix of ancient and contemporary

On the second day in Delhi the group will take part in a Phulkari workshop.

Phulkari is a traditional hand embroidery technique from the states of Punjab, Haryana and Himachel Pradesh.

Inspired by nature with lots of flower, leaf and animal images.

Stitched on silk or cotton with a variety of stitches.

For more information about the holiday and to book your place please contact www.aahilyaholidays.com

Clogs - research road trip to Northampton

 

Trying to find out more about children's clogs led me down the rabbit hole of 'concealed shoes' 

Since the 1300s there has been a tradition of hiding shoes in the chimneys and walls of buildings. These are often discovered many years later.

Northampton Museum holds the index for concealed shoe finds. I was fortunate to book a visit to their archive to look at the register and view the documents they hold about concealed shoes. 

June Swann who was the shoe curator at the museum wrote an article "shoes concelaed in buildings" for a journal article in 1996 whch proved a very useful source of information

The shoe galleries at the Northampton Museum are great - lots of information about the history or shoes, how they are made, and the people who made them

Some of the sewing machines used to stitch the leather uppers -including one adapted by Singer for this purpose

I love a bit of industrial heritage. 

Lasts.  If you are ever in Northampton I would highly recommend a visit to the museum.

But the highlight of my visit was being given access to the shoe archive - thousands of pairs of shoes, all catalogued and stored. 

The curator Rebecca Shawcross allowed me to handle (with gloves of course) some of the concealed shoes they have in the collection. 

Information about when made, the materials used, when donated, where found and sometimes who discovered the concealed shoes. 

Often these were builders whilst doing repair work to old buildings but it is the house owner who gets the named credit. 

But we NEVER know who were the original wearers - the shoes could have been there for several hundred years

 

Many concealed shoes are a single - what happened to the other one?

This is a clog with studs around the metal trim - like the ones I found. But a clasp fitting.

Some concealed shoes had laces. Most were in poor condition obviously been worn, repaired, and performing one last act to ward off evil spirits. 

Because shoes take on the shape of their wearers they are so symbolic of the human condition. This gives a poignancy I think.

Some concealed shoes are in very poor condition. Where they like tht when hidden? Or deteriorated through their period of concealment. Many were hidden in chimneys so could have been scorched or discoloured with smoke and soot. 

I feel quite protective of them, and their unknown wearers

Almost half of the concealed shoes found were children's shoes. Why?

Were these the shoes of a dead child? Placed in a building to protect the health of a sibling or future children? 

Infant and child mortality was high in working class families.  

My research has also revealed many superstitions about shoes and their link to not only good and bad luck but also to fertility - more of that in the next blog.

I am enjoying this research